Ingredient sourcing note: Some ingredients mentioned in this article are available from The Skin Science Company (theskinsciencecompany.com.au), an Australian cosmetic raw materials supplier. We recommend them based on the quality and availability of their products. We have no commercial, affiliate, or sponsorship relationship with them and receive no payment or commission for these mentions.
If you have been exploring the world of advanced skincare formulation, you have likely come across squalane. This lightweight, stable, and incredibly biocompatible oil has become a staple in both luxury and clinical skincare lines. But for the home formulator, the real magic happens when you learn how to incorporate it into a professional-grade emulsion. Creating a DIY squalane moisturiser allows you to harness the skin-mimicking properties of this “miracle” lipid while tailoring the texture and active ingredients to your specific skin needs.
Why Squalane is a Formulator’s Best Friend
Squalane is the saturated and stable version of squalene, a natural component of human sebum that makes up approximately 10-12% of our skin’s oil. While squalene is highly prone to oxidation, squalane is a hydrogenated form that offers a significantly longer shelf life and exceptional stability in formulations. This makes it an ideal choice for a DIY squalane moisturiser, as it won’t go rancid easily and remains effective even when exposed to air and light.
From a formulation perspective, squalane is prized for its “non-greasy” feel. It is a high-spreadability emollient that sinks into the skin almost instantly, providing a silky finish without the heavy, occlusive feel of traditional plant oils. It is also non-comedogenic, making it suitable for all skin types, from oily and acne-prone to mature and severely dry. By mimicking the skin’s natural barrier, squalane helps to prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and restores suppleness to the complexion.
The Science of Emulsification: Building Your Moisturiser
A true moisturiser is an emulsion—a stable blend of water and oil. To create a DIY squalane moisturiser that doesn’t separate, we need to use a professional emulsifying wax. For this lightweight formula, we recommend using a modern, high-performance emulsifier like Emulsifier HP 30 (Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate) or Olivem 1000. These emulsifiers not only hold the formula together but also contribute to the liquid crystal structure of the cream, which helps the skin better absorb the active ingredients.
Our formulation is divided into three distinct phases: the Heated Water Phase, the Heated Oil Phase, and the Cool Down Phase. This structured approach ensures that heat-sensitive ingredients like preservatives and certain botanical extracts are not degraded during the manufacturing process. By precisely weighing each ingredient in grams rather than using drops or spoons, you ensure a consistent, safe, and professional result every time.
Professional DIY Squalane Moisturiser Formula
This recipe creates a 100g batch of a lightweight, hydrating emulsion. It is designed to be fast-absorbing and perfect for daily use under sunscreen or makeup. We have included propanediol and panthenol for deep hydration, while squalane and jojoba oil provide a protective, silky barrier.
| Phase | Ingredient | Weight (g) | Function |
|---|---|---|---|
| A (Heated Water) | Distilled Water / Rose Hydrosol | 74.0 | Solvent / Base |
| A (Heated Water) | Propanediol 1,3 | 3.0 | Humectant / Solvent |
| A (Heated Water) | Panthenol (Vitamin B5) | 0.5 | Soothing / Hydrating |
| A (Heated Water) | Allantoin | 0.5 | Anti-irritant |
| B (Heated Oil) | Emulsifying Wax (e.g., HP 30) | 3.0 | Emulsifier |
| B (Heated Oil) | Squalane (Olive Derived) | 10.0 | Star Emollient |
| B (Heated Oil) | Jojoba Oil | 7.0 | Emollient |
| B (Heated Oil) | Vitamin E (Mixed Tocopherols) | 0.5 | Antioxidant |
| C (Cool Down) | Broad Spectrum Preservative | 1.0 | Preservation |
| C (Cool Down) | Bisabolol | 0.5 | Soothing Active |
Step-by-Step Formulation Guide
To ensure your DIY squalane moisturiser is safe and stable, follow these professional manufacturing steps. Cleanliness is paramount in cosmetic formulation; always sanitise your equipment and workspace with 70% Isopropyl Alcohol before starting.
- Prepare the Phases: In a heat-resistant glass beaker, weigh out all ingredients for Phase A. In a separate heat-resistant beaker, weigh out all Phase B ingredients.
- Heat and Melt: Place both beakers in a double boiler (bain-marie) over medium heat. Heat both phases until they reach approximately 70-75°C. Ensure the emulsifying wax in Phase B is completely melted and Phase A is clear and uniform.
- Emulsify: Once both phases are at the correct temperature, slowly pour Phase B (the oil phase) into Phase A (the water phase) while stirring. Use a high-shear mixer (like a stick blender) for 2-3 minutes to create a stable emulsion. You will notice the mixture turning white and creamy.
- Cooling: Continue to stir the emulsion gently by hand as it cools. This prevents large air bubbles from forming and ensures a smooth texture.
- Add Cool Down Phase: When the temperature of the emulsion drops below 40°C, add your Phase C ingredients. Stir thoroughly to incorporate the preservative and bisabolol.
- pH Adjustment: Check the pH of your moisturiser using a digital pH meter or high-quality pH strips. For a facial moisturiser, aim for a pH between 5.0 and 5.5. If needed, adjust with a 10% citric acid solution.
- Packaging: Transfer your finished DIY squalane moisturiser into a clean airless pump or a glass jar. Label with the date and the full ingredient list.
Advanced Tips for Customising Your Formula
Once you have mastered the basic DIY squalane moisturiser, you can begin to experiment with customisations. For a more intensive night cream, you might increase the squalane to 15% and reduce the water content. Alternatively, if you are formulating for oily skin, you could swap the jojoba oil for a “dryer” oil like rosehip or hemp seed oil.
For those looking to target specific skin concerns, consider adding water-soluble actives to Phase A or heat-sensitive actives to Phase C. For example, adding 2% Niacinamide to the water phase can help with pore size and texture, while adding 1% Coenzyme Q10 to the cool-down phase provides potent antioxidant protection against environmental stressors.
Conclusion: Elevate Your DIY Skincare Game
Creating your own DIY squalane moisturiser is a rewarding experience that bridges the gap between hobbyist DIY and professional cosmetic science. By using high-quality ingredients like squalane and following proper emulsification techniques, you can produce a product that rivals high-end commercial brands in both feel and efficacy. Remember that the quality of your raw materials directly impacts the final result, so always source from reputable suppliers.
For all your formulation needs, including cosmetic-grade squalane, high-performance emulsifiers, and botanical extracts, look no further than The Skin Science Company. They provide Australian formulators with the professional tools and ingredients required to create exceptional skincare products at home.
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