Ingredient sourcing note: Some ingredients mentioned in this article are available from The Skin Science Company (theskinsciencecompany.com.au), an Australian cosmetic raw materials supplier. We recommend them based on the quality and availability of their products. We have no commercial, affiliate, or sponsorship relationship with them and receive no payment or commission for these mentions.
I still remember the first time I decided to go “completely natural” with my skincare routine.
I had read on a popular wellness blog that Coconut Oil was the holy grail of moisture. So, naturally, I slathered it all over my face every night for a week, expecting to wake up glowing. Instead? I woke up with the worst cystic breakout of my adult life. I looked like a teenager again, and not in a good way.
I felt betrayed. I was using a pure, organic ingredient—why was my skin rebelling?
It took me months of research (and a lot of healing) to realise the problem wasn’t the quality of the oil. It was the chemistry. I was trying to force a heavy, pore-clogging oil onto skin that was actually struggling to repair a damaged skin barrier.
If you’ve ever stared at a wall of amber bottles in the health food store, feeling completely overwhelmed, I get it. It’s confusing. But here is the secret most labels won’t tell you: finding the best carrier oils for skin types isn’t about guessing—it’s about looking at the fatty acid profile.
Here is the no-nonsense guide I wish I had ten years ago.
The Secret Code: Linoleic vs. Oleic Acid
Before we get to the specific oils, we need to talk about the “why.” This was the lightbulb moment for me.
Most carrier oils are dominant in one of two fatty acids: Oleic Acid (Omega-9) or Linoleic Acid (Omega-6).
Think of Oleic Acid like a heavy wool coat. It’s thick, rich, and incredibly nourishing. It sits on top of the skin to seal moisture in. If you have dry, thirsty, or mature skin, this is your best friend.
On the flip side, Linoleic Acid is like a linen shirt. It’s lightweight, breathable, and absorbs almost instantly. If you are acne-prone or have oily skin, your sebum is likely low in linoleic acid, which makes your natural oils thick and sticky (leading to clogged pores). Adding a high-linoleic oil actually helps balance your skin.
See the difference? I was putting a “wool coat” (Coconut Oil) on my face in the middle of summer.
My Top Picks for Acne-Prone & Oily Skin
If you are terrified of putting oil on your face because you think it will make you greasy, these are the game-changers. We call these “dry oils” because they vanish into the skin within seconds.
1. Grapeseed Oil
The Profile: High Linoleic.
Why I love it: It’s incredibly affordable and often available at your local supermarket (just make sure it’s cold-pressed, not the cooking stuff processed with solvents). It has a slight astringent quality that feels like it tightens the pores rather than clogging them.
2. Hemp Seed Oil
The Profile: High Linoleic.
Why I love it: This is my go-to when my skin feels red or inflamed. It has a beautiful earthy smell and a dark green colour. It’s remarkably soothing and scores a zero on the carrier oil comedogenic chart, meaning it won’t clog you at all.
My Top Picks for Dry & Mature Skin
If your skin feels tight an hour after washing, or you’re seeing fine lines creeping in, you need the heavy lifters. These oils provide that “cushioned” feeling.
1. Avocado Oil
The Profile: High Oleic.
Why I love it: This is a thick, viscous oil. I don’t use this during the day under makeup, but as a night treatment? It’s magic. It penetrates deep into the epidermis and leaves your skin feeling velvety by morning.
2. Sweet Almond Oil
The Profile: High Oleic.
Why I love it: This is the classic all-rounder for body oils. It’s lighter than Avocado but still offers substantial moisture. Because it is so gentle, I often use it as a base when making a DIY eczema cream for dry, irritated patches.
The “Safety Net” Oil: Jojoba
If you’re still not sure where you fit, or you have combination skin that changes with the weather, start here.
Technically, Jojoba Oil isn’t an oil—it’s a liquid wax ester. This matters because it mimics human sebum almost perfectly. It tricks your skin into thinking it has produced enough oil, which can actually stop you from getting greasy later in the day.
It’s the most stable oil in my kit and rarely goes rancid, making it the perfect base for a DIY cleansing balm or simple daily moisturizer.
Quick Reference: Carrier Oil Comedogenic Chart
I keep a version of this stuck to the inside of my bathroom cabinet. The scale runs from 0 (Will not clog pores) to 5 (High chance of clogging pores).
| Oil Type | Comedogenic Rating (0-5) | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Hemp Seed Oil | 0 | Acne-prone, Oily, Sensitive |
| Grapeseed Oil | 1 | Oily, Congested Skin |
| Jojoba Oil | 2 | Combination, Balanced Skin |
| Sweet Almond Oil | 2 | Dry, Sensitive, Body Care |
| Coconut Oil | 4 | Body only (Avoid on face!) |
How to Start Your DIY Face Oil Recipe
You don’t need to be a chemist to make a blend better than the $80 bottles at the department store. Here is my simple formula for a custom serum:
- The Base (80%): Choose the oil above that matches your skin type.
- The Boost (19%): Add a luxury oil like Rosehip (anti-ageing) or Pomegranate Seed (repairing).
- The Scent (1%): A drop of Vitamin E (to preserve it) and your favourite essential oil (like Lavender or Frankincense).
The Takeaway
Skincare is deeply personal. What works for your best friend might be a disaster for you, and that’s okay. The key is to stop guessing and start looking at the ingredients.
If you’re currently battling breakouts or dryness that won’t budge, check the bottle sitting on your vanity. You might just be wearing a wool coat in summer.
Have you tried swapping your oils based on fatty acids? I’d love to hear if it made a difference for you—let me know in the comments below.
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